Look closely
Where did it start? Old leaves, growing tips, glass or wood? A close photo and the date help you compare the next changes.
Targeted fertilization by NilocG.
Observe · understand · act
A leaf changes colour. A film appears on the glass. Start with what you can see, then connect it to what has changed in your aquarium. Choose a photo to read its explanation below.
Where did it start? Old leaves, growing tips, glass or wood? A close photo and the date help you compare the next changes.
Think back: new plants, a brighter lamp, a missed maintenance day? Timing is often more useful than colour alone.
Choose a measured first action. Record it, keep the rest of the routine steady and watch new growth rather than expecting an old damaged leaf to recover.
Illustrations of typical appearances. Colour and texture vary; they cannot confirm an identification.
0 selected
You can skip this. These answers help prioritize checks, not identify a species or a nutrient deficiency.
Select at least one appearance, or browse the complete guide.
OBSERVE · UNDERSTAND · ACT
These are working possibilities. Compare the texture, location and timing before changing the aquarium.
How to recognize it
Lower leaves fall while the upper portion remains fuller.
Shade from a dense canopy or ageing stems can contribute. A nutrient problem is only one possibility.
Whether the lower area is shaded and whether several species decline at once.
Thin the canopy gently, space stems and replant healthy tops where appropriate for the species. Avoid simply extending the lighting day.
Healthier new side shoots and less loss from newly planted stems.
How to recognize it
Yellowing begins mainly on mature or lower leaves.
Ageing, shade and nitrogen limitation can look similar. Pale tissue with greener veins raises other possibilities, including magnesium.
New versus old leaves, existing nutrient inputs and nitrate trends rather than a single reading.
Remove only failing tissue. Review lighting and nutrition together; correct a documented shortfall gradually.
New leaves develop normally; old yellow leaves may not recover.
How to recognize it
Young leaves are unusually pale, sometimes with greener veins.
Iron availability can be involved, but colour varies by species, lighting spectrum and viewing angle.
Compare in neutral light and check whether the pallor persists as the leaf matures. Review pH and the complete nutrition routine.
Keep a dated photo of the same shoot. Avoid adding iron repeatedly just because a water test reads zero.
Later leaves mature with a more normal colour.
How to recognize it
Small holes or patches of dead tissue, sometimes edged in yellow.
Potassium limitation is a possibility, alongside physical damage, grazing and deterioration of old leaves.
Do new holes appear on intact leaves? Observe animals and compare where the damage starts.
Protect damaged plants from mechanical stress and review existing potassium inputs before adding more.
New leaves stay intact. Existing holes do not close.
How to recognize it
Leaves soften, turn translucent or disintegrate after a change.
Some plants replace emersed leaves when submerged. Transplant stress or a rapid environmental change can also cause leaf loss.
Planting date, recent temperature or water changes, and whether the crown or rhizome remains firm.
Remove decomposing leaves gently and leave a firm, living base in place. Keep conditions steady instead of repeatedly uprooting it.
New submerged growth emerges. A soft decaying base calls for a closer assessment.
How to recognize it
Few new leaves or shoots over the observation period.
Slow species and non-injected tanks can grow slowly without being unhealthy. Shade, limited carbon, nutrition or root stress can also constrain growth.
The species’ normal growth, time since planting and the light actually reaching it.
Compare weekly photos. Match the plant to the setup before increasing light or fertilizer.
Sustained new growth at a realistic pace for the species.
How to recognize it
New leaves are crumpled, small or distorted.
The pattern is not specific to calcium. Unstable growth conditions, carbon supply, mineral balance or physical injury may be involved.
Whether the distortion follows a recent change and affects one shoot or several plants; review the source water and remineralization.
Keep conditions stable and document new growth. Avoid adding calcium or trace elements without checking the water and existing inputs.
Later shoots unfold normally; already distorted leaves may remain so.
How to recognize it
An epiphyte’s thick horizontal stem is buried, softening or losing leaves at its base.
Anubias and similar rhizome plants need the rhizome exposed. Burying it can promote rot; softness also warrants checking the plant’s condition.
Separate fine roots from the thicker rhizome. Is it firm and exposed, or soft and covered?
Expose the rhizome and attach the firm living portion to suitable hardscape. Remove decaying tissue carefully; do not try to repair rot with fertilizer.
A firm base and new leaves or roots; continued softening needs reassessment.

Give yourself time to observe

Give yourself time to observe
The timer controls how long the lamp runs. The dimmer, lamp height, tank depth and shade affect the light reaching a leaf. A long day does not compensate for a shaded plant; a strong lamp can demand more carbon and nutrients than the tank supplies. Tropica suggests 6 hours daily during the first three weeks, then a gradual increase toward 8 hours. Treat this as a starting routine, not a diagnosis.
Tropica · Read the source ↗Remove uneaten food and decaying leaves. Siphon debris from the surface without uprooting the whole tank. Maintain filter flow and gently rinse clogged media in removed aquarium water; avoid replacing all biological media at once. Use a repeatable water-change routine suited to the animals and substrate, with conditioned water of compatible temperature and chemistry.
A planted aquarium can contain measurable nitrate and phosphate without an algae outbreak. Starving every nutrient may weaken the plants. Conversely, unnecessary extra doses can accumulate. Compare existing inputs, growth and water measurements over time. Healthy new leaves matter more than repairing old holes; damaged tissue usually stays damaged.
Take a full-tank photo and a close-up. Note affected surfaces or leaves, your light settings and the latest change. Remove loose debris and check equipment.
Keep a steady routine and record one deliberate adjustment. Compare the speed of recurrence on the same cleaned area. Avoid piling treatments together.
Compare new leaves and the spread of the problem. Slow plants may need longer. If deterioration continues, reassess with dated photos and measurements instead of doubling doses.
Send a clear close-up, a full-tank photo, the aquarium’s age, light settings, CO₂ setup and recent water measurements.
A visual resemblance is a clue. Aquarium algae names often describe an appearance, not a laboratory-confirmed species.
Look at the overall condition of your plants: colour, growth, new shoots and older leaves. Every detail matters.
If an adjustment seems necessary, check lighting, CO₂, maintenance and water measurements for a complete picture.
Add a targeted NilocG Elemental supplement if needed, based on your observations and assessment.
Targeted nutrition for thriving plants
Explore the Thrive range by NilocG, a complete and balanced solution.